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Equipment
Lenses
There is a bewildering array of options here, and prices to be paid for some of them. I will go through just the ones I have actually used.
Extension tubes
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This is the cheapest way to get close-up pictures using your existing equipment. A tube goes between the camera and the lens which allows closer focusing and therefore higher magnification. To work out the magnification use the following formula magnification = extension / focal length. If you have a modern camera with autofocus and through lens metering then it is possible to buy extension tubes which keep these functions intact. |
Supplementary filters
| You can buy close-up filters (e.g. x2, x4). These are basically a magnifying glass that you attach to the front of the lens, which literally magnify the image. The x4 filter seems to increase the image size by roughly 40%. They are good value for money but are not optically brilliant, a small aperture essential to eliminate the aberrations of the lens. |
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(True) Macro lenses
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A true Macro lens is one that can focus up to life size (i.e. 1:1) on film. They come in varying lengths (50mm, 100mm, 180mm) the longer the lens the further away you can be and still get the same shot. I use a 100mm Macro lens that gets 1:1 at about 30cm from the film to the subject. These lenses, it is generally considered, are often the some of the best optical quality lenses manufacturers make. |
(Pseudo) Macro lenses
Lots of lenses claim to be macro lenses, and in a way they are. If they can get the subject matter to a size you want then that’s OK. I have used a 28-80mm zoom which focuses to about 30cm to get excellent results. Also I use a 70-210mm which gets good size images from a good working distance, you can take pictures of Butterflies in trees, or over fences which can be essential.
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© All pictures in these pages copyright to Simon Coombes. Permission must be sought and obtained for any use. |
